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| Foxhunting With The Bridlespur Hunt |
This text was originally created by Mr. Adelbert vonGontard, ex-MFH
and Mr. August A. Busch, Jr., ex-MFH and has been edited and
republished several times through the years, for the benefit of
members and guests of the Bridlespur Hunt. Last revision: 2007 |
FOX HUNTING HISTORY Fox hunting has been an integral and important part of rural life in many parts of the United States for centuries. Hunting flourishes because of the good will of landowners and farmers. Be constantly aware that you are a guest on someone else’s land and never jeopardize this good will. Hunting takes place in public. We must all assume that our activities will be observed by the public and must be prepared to be held publicly accountable for our actions. It is our absolute obligation to maintain the highest standards of sportsmanship and good behavior at all times. The Bridlespur Hunt The Bridlespur Hunt was founded with the inspiration, support and assistance of the late Mr. August A. Busch Sr., who obtained the original draft of hounds from the well-known Joseph B. Thomas-Percy Rockefeller pack at Overhills, North Carolina. They consisted entirely of American hounds, or, as better known, Virginia Hounds. By careful breeding, observation and culling of the less desirable, the two guiding spirits of the Hunt, Mr. August A. Busch Jr., and Mr. Adelbert Von Gontard Sr., developed a pack with most excellent nose and voice. They have gone out twice a week since that time, even during the war years of 1941-1946. The Meramec Valley Hunt was established in 1981 by Wayne Kennedy, Joe Sansone and Dr. Bruce R. McCloskey. The club was recognized by the Masters of Foxhound Association in 1988. The club hunted Crossbred Foxhounds mainly in the territory South of Interstate 44. Upon Mr. Kennedy’s retirement in 1995 the horn was turned over to Jill Wagenknecht. Jill was made Co-Master in 1996. Mary Hensel replaced Joe Sansone in 2000 as Co- Master with Dr. McCloskey and Jill Wagenknecht. Once again urban development forced the club to search for a new location in 2006. Through the tireless effort of Werner Kugler, MFH, Bridlespur found its new home in Lincoln County. A new kennel and lovely clubhouse were built to complete the new home of Bridlespur Hunt. 1388 acres of beautiful rolling hills and woods provide wonderful hunting and incredible trail riding. This should secure the future of The Bridlespur Hunt and the sport of fox hunting for years to come. PURPOSE The purpose of the Bridlespur Hunt was, and is, to bring together those who are keenly interested in riding to hounds. The prime purpose of any individual who hunts should be to watch and follow the working of the hounds in their efforts to outwit the fox. Another purpose of the Bridlespur Hunt is to improve the breed of our hounds. We steadily strive to breed hounds of good conformation, keener nose, greater endurance and good cry. Throughout the years English Hound blood has been bred into the pack, developing an excellent “Crossbred” pack. Many hunts throughout the country have found it desirable to cross their “American” Hounds with “English”, obtaining more hound control, which has become more important as the rural areas have developed and highways have appeared. The English hound is much more inclined to discipline and control without sacrificing the voice and drive of the American Hound. FOXHUNTING
A PACK OF HOUNDS A suggested minimum being 12 couple, hounds being counted in couples, making 12 couple a total of 24 hounds. Most huntsmen wish to hunt between 10 and 15 couple, with many of the hunts going out with as many as 30 couple. There are three basic breeds of hounds suited to mounted foxhunting: the English, the American, and the Crossbred, which are a combination of the English and the American. The Bridlespur Hunt has a Crossbred pack. A HUNTSMAN: The Huntsman (male or female) is the person responsible for the care, feeding, and training of the foxhounds. The Huntsman controls the hounds with voice and horn. Each horn call has special meaning to the hounds, as will as the whippers-in and field, and while the hounds understand the Huntsman’s voice, the horn covers a great distance and can be heard by the hounds long after the voice. HUNT COUNTRY: This is the area in which the hunt takes place MASTERS OF FOXHOUNDS: Most of the organized mounted foxhunts in the U.S. belong to an organization known as THE MASTERS OF FOX HOUNDS ASSOCIATION (MFHA) and each hunt has its own Master or Masters of Foxhounds (MFH). The Master is the person or persons in charge of the hunt organization, makes all of the decisions as to how the hunt is run, where and when the hunts are held, employs the Huntsman and takes responsibility for a good relationship with the landowners and community. In many hunts one of the Masters will actually hunt the hounds. Bridlespur prefers to employ a professional Huntsman and the Masters assist as needed. WHIPPERS-IN: Each hunt has Whippers-in, which are usually honorary whippers-in as opposed to professional whippers-in. This means that they are members of the hunt club who voluntarily donate a great deal of time to helping the Huntsman exercise hounds and during the hunt they ride where the Huntsman designates to observe hounds, keep them from rioting on deer or cattle, turning them back from crossing highways and busy roads. A Whipper-In must know the names of the hounds, which are old steady hounds and which are young hounds and be generally aware of where the hounds are at all times. FIELD MASTER: The Field Master may be a MFH or a member of the hunt who has hunted for a number of years, knows the country well and has a steady, bold jumping horse. The Field Master rides ahead of the field members within sight of the Huntsman, but not too close as to interfere. The Field constitutes all of the hunt members and guests who are out with the hunt and it is their duty to stay behind (and not crowd) the Field Master, nor must they ever pass the Field Master. Most hunts have two fields, the Jumping Field, and a Hilltopping Field (non-jumping). The Hilltoppers are led by a Field Master who must know the country well, and can lead them through the country where they can open gates and get around the area without losing the hunt THE HUNTING FIELD: As stated above, THE FIELD constitutes all of the persons hunting on a certain day. They should be in control of their horse at all times and if they experience any difficulties which will require them to leave the hunt (such as losing a shoe, breaking an item of tack, unable to control their horse, or perhaps a tired horse), they should advise a member of the field, or the Field Master. THE MEET is the place where the hunt gathers before hunting. THE FIXTURE CARD contains the time and place where “The Meet” will be on a given date. THE HUNT SEASON: Hound work is year ‘round activity; the Bridlespur Hounds are walked out daily for exercise. Preparation for the fox hunting season begins in earnest on the 1st of August when the Hunt Staff commences hound exercise by horseback. This is referred to as “Roading”. This gets both hounds and staff horses into hunting fitness, and is particularly important for the young entry, as this is usually their first exposure to horses and to areas outside the kennel grounds. Ideally, this period of exercise lasts about six weeks. Members are welcome to come out during this time. It is an excellent opportunity to leg up your horse or introduce a green hose to hunting.
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CUBBING: Cubbing consists of the first six weeks of hunting prior to the opening of Formal Hunting. It is designed to enter the young hounds and continue the conditioning of both hounds and horses. During cubbing we work the converts slowly and thoroughly, paying close attention to keeping track of the young entry. On very warm, or bad scenting days we will not keep the hounds out for very long periods as this training period is extremely important to the success of good hunting when the formal season starts. Do not expect the cubbing season to provide fast or long hunts, however, this again depends on the game and the scenting conditions. FORMAL HUNTING: Formal hunting begins at the end of October. By this time young hounds should be steady and hunts have gradually lengthened to full scale. Hunting continues twice a week. HUNTING PROTOCOL Please respect your FIELD MASTER and stay approximately ten feet behind him or her, as it is necessary for them to be able to hear hounds and huntsman without being crowded Field members ride in order of seniority. Persons with colors always ride in front of those without colors. It is appropriate to always allow those with more seniority then yourself to ride in front of you. Check with a more senior person to see where they wish to ride in the field. For more clarification, a list, of who and when colors were awarded, has been included in the back of the book. We do not allow smoking at any time while you are mounted. Please do not drop behind the field. If you cannot keep up, you must have someone direct you to the nearest road and hack via roads only. Never ride cross-country unless you are following the Fieldmaster. If you leave the hunt, please notify a fellow rider and he/she will have someone contact the Fieldmaster, (when convenient) so they will know who has left the field. We also ask that after a hunt you remain mounted and quiet until all of the hounds are safely in the kennel, at which time give thanks to the Huntsman for the day’s sport. HILLTOPPER We welcome hilltoppers and plan a Hilltop Master available for those of you who do not wish to jump, and hope to make this both a learning and pleasant experience. In order to ensure that we have someone to lead the hilltoppers, we ask that you call the day before the hunt if you wish to hilltop, or if you are bringing a guest to hilltop. SOCIAL MEMBERS Social members are encouraged to utilize the club facilities throughout the year. Hunting activities will take precedence over social activities and trail rides. Social Members are entitled to hunt with the pack two times per season. GUESTS You may have a guest during cubbing as well as formal season. We suggest you contact the Secretary or one of the Masters the day before, giving the name of the guest and whether hilltopper or jumper. Inform your guest of the proper attire, etiquette and capping fees prior to the Hunt. Upon arriving at the Meet arrange to pay your guest’s capping fee and have your guest sign a release waiver. Please note that it is very important for you to arrive early to get these things done. No one will be permitted to hunt without a signed release. Guests belonging to another hunt may pay a $50.00 capping fee or not at the Masters discretion. Guests NOT belonging to another hunt will pay a $50.00 capping fee. When you have a guest, you and your guest ride in the back of the field unless invited by the Fieldmaster to ride in another position in the field. EQUINE PROFESSIONAL An Equine Professional is someone that has or operates from a place of business from which they regularly invoice clients or one who earns the vast majority of their earned income from the boarding, training, transporting, buying or selling, of horses and from the instruction of student riders. GROOM A person who is paid to assist a regular hunting member with the preparation for, and transportation to the hunt, and on a regular basis assists said member with their equine endeavors. Such grooms must be mounted on a hunting member’s horse and may ride in the hunt at no charge. DO and DO NOT  1 - If at all possible, don't ride a kicking horse. If you have ever seen a horse with a broken leg due to a kicker you will never forget it. If you find yourself on a kicker, it is imperative that you tie a bright red ribbon near the root of the horse's tail, as a warning to others, and ride at the very back of the field. 2 - Control your horse. Don't run into other members of the field. It is discourteous, to say nothing of being rather painful. If you have an unruly horse, get rid of him, as there will be no pleasure for yourself, or for anyone else, if you cannot keep your horse in hand. 3 - Don't crowd at fences. Give the person in front of you at least a hundred foot lead, so if horse and rider should go down, you will not jump on them. If your horse refuses a jump you must circle and go to the end of the line. 4 - Don't talk while hounds are casting about for the line. Your entire interest is supposed to be centered on the working of the hounds. 5 - Be on time. A hunt must be conducted on schedule, and no greater discourtesy can be shown the Master, and to the Hunt itself, than to straggle in with no regard for the time of moving-off as shown on the fixture card. Plan to arrive at the Meet 45 minutes prior to moving off time and be mounted 15 minutes prior to moving off. 6 - Don't fail to give a hound room. To run down a hound is well nigh unpardonable. Hounds are hard to train, expensive to keep going and do their best to give you good sport. Since many horses kick at hounds, do not fail to give hounds a wide berth. If hounds or the hunt staff is passing you keep the head of your horse turned toward them. Do not berate, cheer on or talk to a hound that is for the Huntsman. 7 - If someone comes down, don't keep on going; pull up promptly, help him remount and assist him in every way possible. This same thing may happen to you the next time out. 8 - If hounds are gone away on the line of a fox, and by chance you should see the fox back-tracking, don't get "buck fever". Pull up and shout "Tally-ho" at the top of your voice, pointing with your hat or cap in the direction that the fox has gone. Don't gallop over the line of scent - stay still until the hounds are brought up and capped on the line. 9 - Please return all gates to open/close status that the first rider found them in, if in doubt ask the Huntsman or Fieldmaster, or close them. 10 - Be of assistance to your Hunt. Do not simply take everything for granted. A hunt is difficult to maintain, even under the most ideal circumstances. Without your individual interest and assistance it will not prosper as it otherwise should. Ascertain if there is not some burden that you can take off the shoulders of the Hunt officials. Consistently manifest a practical willingness to assume responsibility, if and when requested 11 - Above all, show your pride in your Hunt and your respect for the Master, by hunting regularly, at all times with your attire, your horse and your tack in scrupulously correct and clean condition. Subscribers and guests of this Hunt should make it an invariable rule never to rider over a farmer's land, save when out with the hounds when due permission has been sought and given. Never to ride over land that is wet or in crops, never to ride through a barnyard or through cattle at speed, this is a certain way to shut off amicable relations. By contrast, make it a point to have a pleasant word with the landowner, or his family, and always raise your hand. Simply and sincerely, make them feel that you are appreciative of their great courtesy in permitting the Hunt to ride through their property.
If the Hunt should knock down a fence or open a gate, regard it as your immediate duty to remedy the situation at once. One of the quickest ways to close a good hunting district is to allow a farmer's livestock to get out become injured or lost.
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Proper Hunting Attire |
A member or guest of a recognized Hunt should no more think of turning out garbed in nondescript fashion than he would think of dressing in golf clothes to go to the theatre, or to a wedding. There is a definite and authoritative regulation as to attire and to uphold the quality and excellence of one's Hunt, it should be a matter of personal pride to see that the rules on proper attire are thoroughly understood, and scrupulously followed. There are two groups comprising the Bridlespur Hunt: regular members, and members who, in recognition of valuable service to the Hunt, have been invited by the Master to wear the Hunt button. Members of the latter classification are commonly referred to as members "with colors." On formal hunting days, regular members wear formal black. Ladies and gentlemen with colors can be distinguished by their attire on formal days: gentleman wear formal scarlet and ladies wear formal black with robin's egg blue collars. Gentlemen canary vests, and ladies robin's egg blue vests. On informal days, all members dress in ratcatcher, except members of the hunt staff who always dress in formal scarlet. This includes lady Masters and Ladies serving as huntsman or whippers-in. Non members hunting as guests come attired the same as regular members. Some exceptions are made for children and are noted herein. When hunting out of town with another hunt it is not appropriate to wear your colors unless it is a joint meet or you have secured permission from their Masters to wear your colors. Formal Black Without Colors Guests and those members without colors During Formal Season Weekends & Holidays Coat: Black or dark blue melton, or hard finished lightweight. (Never velvet). Collar of coat material. SHIRT: White shirt with properly tied white stock tie, pinned with plain gold stock pin worn horizontal. VEST: Canary. BREECHES: Buff or canary. HAT: Black Derby with hat cord or black velvet hunt cap, or ladies may wear top hat with shadbelly coat. Hair arranged neatly in hairnet. No earrings. BOOTS: Plain black leather dress boots (not field). GLOVES: White or yellow string, brown, tan or natural leather. WHIP: Hunt Whip with thong. CHILDREN: under 16 may wear tweed coats with tan or black boots, or jodhpur boots, and must wear hunt caps with safety harnesses. Formal Black With Colors Ladies who have been awarded their colors During Formal Season Weekends & Holidays COAT: Black or dark blue melton, or hard finish lightweight. Robin's egg blue collar, black bone buttons, with BH engraved thereon, or black shadbelly with engraved buttons. VEST: Ladies - robin's egg blue vest with brass buttons engraved with BH thereon. BREECHES: Buff or canary. BOOTS: Black with black patent tops and garter straps of patent. Blunt spurs with black leather straps. TIE: White stock, neatly tied with plain gold safety pin fastened horizontally. HAT: Black hunting derby with black hat cord, or black velvet hunt cap. Top hat may be worn with shad belly coat only. Hair net is mandatory. No earrings. GLOVES: White or yellow string, brown, tan or natural leather. WHIP: Lady's hunting whip with thong. Formal Scarlet Formal Scarlet is worn only by Gentlemen who have been awarded colors COAT: Scarlet, single breasted frock, with robin's egg blue collar, or formal cutaway from shadbelly; four button closing (except for Huntsman or Master who will have five button closings to carry a horn). Polished brass buttons with BH engraved thereon. VEST: Canary with brass buttons with BH engraved thereon. BREECHES: White or off white. BOOTS: Black with brown boot tops, tabs sewn on but not down, white buck garter straps. Blunt spurs, with black leather spur straps. HAT: Top Hat with scarlet hat guard fastening inside of coat collar, or velvet hunt cap with ribbons turned up. Staff will wear only black velvet hunt cap with ribbons turned down. TIE: White stock, neatly tied, with large plain gold safety pin worn horizontal. GLOVES: White or yellow string, brown, tan or natural leather. WHIP: Hunt whip with thong. Informal (Ratcatcher) To be worn during Cubbing Season and on Weekday hunts during Formal Season. COAT: Hacking jacket of subdued color in solid, check or tweed. VEST: Of conservative complementary color, optional. SHIRT: Ratcatcher with tab collar and stock pin, or shirt and tie. BREECHES: Brick, Brown, Buff or Canary. BOOTS: Black or brown leather, Field or Dress. HAT: Velvet Hunt Cap or Derby, Black or Brown. Ladies to arrange hair neatly in hair net. GLOVES: White or yellow string, brown, tan or natural leather. WHIP: Hunting Whip with thong, optional.
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Glossary of Hunting Terms |
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BLANK |
Used to denote the fact that a covert contains no fox. |
BREAST HIGH |
Used to denote the fact that the scent is good, and that hounds are running with their heads high. |
BRUSH |
The tail of the fox. |
| BURNING SCENT |
Used to denote a strong scent. |
CAST |
Used to describe the spreading of the pack, when in search of the line of the fox |
CHECK |
Used to denote the halt by the pack and the field, for the purpose of resting both animals and riders |
COLD HUNTING |
Used to denote the fact that hounds are having the greatest difficulty in detecting scent. |
COVERT |
A thicket, or a wooded area, reputed to harbor a fox. |
CUB |
A young fox |
DRAFT |
The selection of one or more hounds from the pack |
FIELD |
The riders, considered collectively (other than the Master, Whips, and huntsman), n who follow the hounds in a hunt |
GIVING TONGUE |
The voice of hounds while they are following a scent |
HUNTSMAN |
A professional, or a gentleman or gentlewoman member of the Hunt, who hunts the hounds, and is in immediate charge of the kennels, and of the breeding, care and training of the hounds, under the supervision of the Master. |
LIFTING |
Used when the huntsman takes the pack to another place, usually where he thinks the line of the fox lies. |
MASK |
The head of the fox. |
MEET |
The meeting place, and also the meeting of the members and guests of a hunt club, for the purpose of riding to hounds. |
PACK |
All of the hounds, considered collectively, in any one kennel. Also applied to that group of hounds which participates in any particular hunt. Hounds are numbered or mentioned by couple. Do not say "twenty, or twenty-one hounds", say "ten, or ten and one-half couple" |
PAD |
The feet of the fox |
PACK UP |
A term used by the Master, the Whips, and the huntsman to get the pack to assemble at a check, or to get them back on the line during a run. |
RIOT |
Used when hounds become disorganized, and run some animal other than the fox. |
SKIRTER |
A hound that runs wide of the pack. |
SPEAK |
Used when a hound gives tongue on a scent. |
STERN |
The rear facade of a hound. |
VIXEN |
A female fox. |
last updated 11-Oct-2008
A pack of hounds